Hello readers!
In the latest issue of Fashion Business Reader, we explored some effects of coronavirus outbreak on the Fashion & Luxury industries.
However, while I was travelling between European fashion capitals, the situation has evolved dramatically over the past two weeks.
Milan Fashion Week Drama
Showing solidarity to China, this season Milan Fashion Week began with a fashion show from New York-based Chinese designer, Han Wen (below you can watch my video from the show). As part of the “China We Are With You” initiative, all MFW runway shows were live-streamed on Chinese social media platforms, to the journalists, buyers and industry insiders in China, who weren’t able to make it to Milan.
Related reading: MFW Shows Supports for China Amid COVID-19
Everything seemed to go quite smoothly until the news reported Covid-19 spreading across Northern Italy. Giorgio Armani made a last-minute decision to stage his show behind closed doors. As New York Times pointed out:
The Italian National Fashion Chamber said in a statement […] there were no indications from health officials that changes in the schedule were called for, adding that it was up to brands to decide if they would go ahead. Only Armani made changes, among nine shows scheduled.
[…] It was the first time the 45-year-old Milan fashion house has taken such a step out of public health concerns, though Armani did stage a show in an empty venue in Paris in 1998 after officials said the big tent posed a safety hazard. At that time, he distributed video of the event to fashion editors, then restaged it in New York to protest what he said had been a decision dictated by fashion world politics and not safety concerns.
In streaming, Armani models moved across a dark background, giving contrast to pink, teal and pearl gray silky printed trousers and skirts, while black velvet jackets that blended in with the darkness.
The show ended with what notes said was a ‘’message of love for China,’’ where the coronavirus first broke out. Models in glistening, sculpted gowns from archival couture Armani Prive’ collections inspired by China stopped along the runway, while the 85-year-old took a bow to the virtual audience. Empty seats were visible behind him.
Laura Biagiotti also cancelled her show and displayed the new AW collection only via live streaming. Various events such as the National Chamber of Italian Fashion closing awards, the Moncler Genius open to public installation, Michael Kors launch of its 007 capsule collection – all expected for the last day of MFW – were canceled. Despite growing concerns, other brands among which there were Hugo Boss and Dolce & Gabbana, also scheduled on the last day of MFW, went on with their shows as planned.
Gucci: An Unrepeatable Ritual
"Hi, how are you, everything okay? I was thinking that if you were in Milan next Wednesday, it would be great if you came to the Gucci Hub for the fashion show. Let me know. Kisses."
That’s how with a simple voice memo sent via WhatsApp Alessandro Michele, Gucci's creative director, replaced the formal hardcopy invitations. But that was just the start of what would be the greatest show of Milan Fashion Week, where backstage became the main performance. Indeed, as reported by WWD, this season Gucci was a king of social-media buzz:
According to figures provided by Launchmetrics, Gucci ranked first among the list of the top five brands with the greatest media impact value — the impact a brand generates with its marketing activities across social media, print and online — during the city’s fashion week, which closed here on Feb. 24.
Versace, Prada, Fendi and Giorgio Armani filled in the remainder of the positions in the ranking.
As they say “Better to see something once than to hear about it a thousand times.”, so watch the Gucci’s show in the video below.
Recommended reading: Milan Fashion Week Pivots to Livestreaming Amid Virus Fear
The Devil Wears… Prada
Last but not least was the Prada’s big news — Raf Simons Is Joining Prada:
The Belgian designer will take up the role of co-creative director, working alongside Miuccia Prada with equal responsibilities for creative decision-making. […] The appointment is effective April 2, 2020. Their first show as co-creative directors will be Spring/Summer 2021 womenswear, presented in Milan in September.
[…] Simons joins Prada as the brand faces challenges on the business side of the company. Prada, the brand, is much stronger than its current sales would indicate. The company, which is listed on the Hong Kong stock exchange, has long been a critical favourite and a powerful name with consumers, but a series of strategic missteps have put Prada squarely behind its peers, from errors in pricing strategy to Prada’s lateness to e-commerce and the sneaker boom.
Related reading: Prada-Simons partnership hints at a new designer template
Fashion Month. What’s Next?
While Paris Fashion Week went ahead despite concerns over the spread of the coronavirus, the list of either canceled or postponed fashion industry events continued to grow. Those who were able to attend both European fashion weeks are now wondering whether they might be quarantined when they return home.
Related reading: Will Fashion Editors Be Allowed Back at Their Desks After Attending Milan Fashion Week?
Meanwhile, as reported by WWD, earlier postponed Shanghai Fashion Week is now partnering with Alibaba’s Tmall to create an alternative solution using live-streaming for showcasing Chinese designers and brands on the original schedule.
Yet the question remains: In the age of digital and power of social media… is it time for fashion shows to change?
Thanks for reading,
Asia Assanbayeva
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